Chilemontaña Blog

Proper gear and clothing for your Ojos del Salado Expedition

Along the years climbing big mountains we have learn how challenging is to reach those summits and how several factors may be critical to ensure the success and enjoy the experience: logistics, health, weather, preparation and of course your personal gear and clothing.

In ChileMontaña, we think that at least 30% of the failures comes from lacking the right clothing for the high camp and for the summit day.

You are welcome to check the gear & equipment list for Ojos del Salado (link).

Just to mention some of the most critical:

.- The sleeping bag (-20C minimum)
.- The mountaineering boots (Spantik from Lasportiva or Phantom from Scarpa, or similar)
.- The mittens (Inferno himalayan mitts from North face, or similar)

The duffle bag

After checking the the gear & equipment list, many guests ask why they need a duffel bag instead of a regular big backpack. There are some reasons for that:

  • The Duffel bag will allow you to acces to any item inside of it much easily than any backpack.
  • Your belongings will be better protected from the dust, rain or snow.
  • You will be able to have all your belongings in just one big bag

What about backpacks?

You will need a small 30 to 40 liters daypack, to be used for the day hikes and climbs, but for the Ojos del Salado climb, when you need to spend one night at the high camp, your belongings wont fit in the daypack, this is why you will need a second one:  60 to 80 liters mountaineering backpack.

For the summit day

The final part of the ascent is an easy climb of a rocky step where the guide will use a rope for safety, for that part please make sure to bring the following:

  • A very light harness
  • A helmet

Gear available for rental (link)

Some items are available for rental at ChileMontaña, such as crampons, ice axe, backpack, thermarest, helmet, duffel bag, and more. Please let us know if you lack of any item for your expedition. We will do our best to provide it.

The World Tallest Volcano Experience

We did have an amazing season…

Now lets get ready for the next!

Look at this video…

 

Thanks to all our guest and staff for another great season. We did face bad weather, distance and altitude but we did it with commitment, hard work and positive attitude; smiling in the 6.893m / 22.614ft tall summit and relaxing after at the beach. Now lets get ready for the

 

Upcoming 2017-18 season

 

Ojos del Salado Season 2017-2018

2016/2017 Ojos del Salado climbing season has just come to an end…

and we are really proud to say we had 76 percent success!

 

It is no small feat to climb to this summit at 6.893 meters or 22.614 feet.

 

However, thirty of our forty guests made it to the summit and we want to extend our sincerest compliments and thanks to all those who chose to climb with us this past season.

 

 

We are now accepting registrations for Ojos del Salado expeditions for the upcoming 2017/2018 season and we hope to hearing from you soon.

 

Due to early registrations, some of our departure dates have already been guaranteed to run, so you are welcome to register at this time.

 

 

Check out some pictures of this season!

 

Ojos del Salado 2017 Jan-Feb / Dragon Expedition

Another successful Summit in 2017!

The Expedition Exercise DRAGON CHILEAN VOLCANO successfully summited Ojos del Salado  (6.893m)  on Sunday 5 of February, with almost no wind and wonderful weather.

The team had previously reached the summits of Cerro Doña Ines (5.095m) and San Francisco volcano  (6.018m) and had faced some seriously bad weather while acclimatizing in the first part of the expedition in San Pedro de Atacama area.

Sincere compliments to all expedition members, guests and guides, for this achievement!


Ojos del Salado Jan - Feb 2017

You check out some pictures of their adventure Here

Ojos del Salado Expedition 2016-17

First Summit in 2017!

They all reached the top!!

Five guest and three guides, all part of our ChileMontaña – Ojos del Salado Expedition December 2016 – January 2017, successfully summited the highest volcano of our planet.

They arrived to the top at 12 am, on Tuesday 3 January 2017, with extremely favourable weather conditions and almost no wind.

Then few days later the group was celebrating the summit with a pleasant resting day by the Pacific Ocean, in Pan de Azucar National Park.

Ojos del Salado Dec 2016 - Jan 2017

You check out some pictures of their adventure Here

Ojos Del Salado Expedition November 2016

The expedition left Bahia Inglesa with 12 guests plus 3 guides and the base camp manager, 16 members in all, the 29th on November 2016.

The acclimatization process started with 2 nights camping in Pedernales salt flat, at 3.362m and the climb of Cerro Doña Ines 5.095m.

Checking the weather reports, soon it became very clear that the planned summit day for the main goal, Ojos Del Salado, would be extremely windy, with more than 100 km/h on the summit.

The expedition leaders managed to find a way around this adverse weather conditions and despite strong winds, ten expedition members successfully summited Vulcan San Francisco 6.018m and then six team members summited Ojos del Salado, four guests plus two ChileMontaña guides.

Sincere compliments to all expedition members, who made this expedition possible, successful and safe once again.

And special thanks to the mountains guides and expedition leaders Ryuseki Hiraoka (RYUSEKI EXPEDITIONS) and Sean Disney (ADVENTURE DYNAMICS) who decided once again to trust ChileMontaña for this great adventure.

Ojos del Salado December 2016

For some images link Here

La Paloma 4.900m Chile’s Central Andes

This December a small team, like we liked them, did another ascent of this magnificent glaciated peak, situated just above Santiago.

Congratulations to all of them Guest and Guides!

2016 Dec La Paloma 4.900m

For more photos, please check Here

Spring Backcountry Ski in the Southern Andes of Chile

Last September a group of friends decide to explore the volcanoes of south Chile on spring time. They not only had an amazing time but as well some incredible, springtime skiing on great corn snow, as well all the terrain for them self.

Springtime Backcountry Ski in the South Andes

You could also see these images on higher resolution, here

How to get a good acclimatisation and feel super strong while climbing in the Andes.

ChileMontaña-Atacama-peaks-1

In ChileMontaña we plan our expedition itineraries very carefully, aiming to give all the expedition members, guests and staff, the maximum chances to acclimatize naturally and safely.

Part of the strategy is based on basic rules, such as:

  • Gain altitude very slowly, moving gradually to higher camps.
  • Plan for moderate exercise at higher altitude every day and keep a lower base camp for the night: “climb high / sleep low”.
  • Keep a slow pace during the acclimatisation hikes and climbs.
  • Provide water and different kinds of warm and cold beverages at all times of the day, in order to ensure hydration to all members.

Nevertheless, acclimatisation to the altitude is a personal feature that partially depends on physiology and greatly depends on yourself. Here some tips that will make the difference when climbing a 6000 meters peak in the Andes

Take care of your mind and body before the expedition:

Avoid as much as possible the pre-expedition stress.

  • Protect your respiratory tract of the dry air and the possible infections in the airplane. A silk scarf while sleeping would be of great help.
  • Keep yourself hydrated, eat light.
  • Avoid alcoholic drinks, drugs/medicines and smoke.
  • Avoid polluted and noisy cities.
  • Put the rest of your life on hold and focus on your upcoming adventure.

Take care of your body and mind along the expedition:

  • Move slowly, always. While setting up your tent, while packing and unpacking, while eating and hiking or climbing.
  • Hydrated, Hydrated, Hydrated.
  • Keep drinking. You lose lot of humidity just by breathing the mountain’s dry air.
  • Be honest with yourself.
  • If you not feeling well, rest, go down, try later. Talk to your guide.
  • Keep an eye on yourself.
  • Don’t dismiss any symptoms as something you should not pay attention. Talk to your guide.
  • Eat light, small portions, avoid meat or other sources of protein for dinner.
  • While walking, keep a pace that enables you to breath almost normally, with your mouth closed.
  • While sleeping, keep your head slightly higher than the rest of the body, using a good and comfortable pillow.
  • During the night, keep your head out of the sleeping bag, in order to ensure you are getting enough air.
  • During the night keep partially open the tent’s windows and doors. You want enough air to come in.
  • Make sure you keep your body warm enough at all times. Wear the down jacket as much as you want!
  • Talk to your guide and listen what she or he has to say. All our staff have climbed high mountains most of their lives. They will have tons of useful recommendations to give you.

You could get a printer ready copy of these tips here

If you desire to know more about the science and today’s knowledge behind the acclimatisation process, you could download this Acclimatization Know-How resume we have put together.

Ojos del Salado 6.893m / 22.614ft

Fixed Departures Dates

Season 2016 / 2017

Promo-Fecha-Fija-Ojos-grande-1

DEPARTURE ENDING STATUS
Sunday November 6, 2016 Friday November 18, 2016 Open
Sunday November 20, 2016 Friday December 2, 2016 Open
Sunday December 11, 2016 Friday December 23, 2016 Open
Sunday December 25, 2016 Friday January 6, 2017 Guaranteed
Sunday January 15, 2017 Friday January 27, 2017 Open
Sunday January 29, 2017 Friday February 10, 2017 Full
Sunday February 12, 2017 Friday February 24, 2017 Guaranteed
Sunday March 5, 2017 Friday March 17, 2017 Open
Sunday March 19, 2017 Friday March 31, 2017 Open

 

 

For more details, please contact info@chilemontana.com or visit us at Ojos Fixed dates